What Is A Reputable Breeder?

You have decided that a Purebred dog is for you. What is your next move? What steps should you take to insure that your pup meets your requirements? Doubtless, this purchase should receive thoughtful consideration. It’s no loaf of bread you’re buying—this little pup will be a member of your family for a decade or more. Choosing a reputable breeder is primary to your objective.

Since it is almost impossible for YOU to know what any of these little pups will grow into physically and emotionally, you must rely entirely upon your faith in the person from whom you are purchasing your pup. There are three options open to you in choosing this person.

PET SHOP OR DEALER. The Worst Choice Possible! Pups are poorly bred and raised. They are thought of as merchandise (the loaf of bread) to be sold for a high profit. This high profit is possible because little has been put into the care of these pups. Many are sickly. Pet shops rely heavily on impulse buying via “the doggy in the window,” which is no way to choose an addition to the family.

BACKYARD BREEDER. Also a Poor Choice. This is the person who owns a pet “purebred” and thinks it would be “fun” to have puppies or maybe that it would be a great experience for the children. Even worse, perhaps it’s being done to make money. Usually this breeder knows little about grooming and care, and still less of the breed history or the breed standard or how his dogs conform to it. The backyard breeders do not do regular examinations by veterinarians on any possible problems with their breed, nor do they x-ray hips. They are not even aware of breed problems nor do they care. There goal is to produce pups and when the “fun” is over, sell them quickly.

HOBBY BREEDER. The Very Best Choice. The serious and dedicated hobby breeder regards their dogs as just that—a hobby. They do not expect a huge profit. When someone breeds dogs for enjoyment and for the pleasure and thrill of producing the very finest specimens possible, rather than for profit, the result is SUPERIOR. These breeders acknowledge responsibility for each and every puppy produced and stand behind every dog they have bred. Without question, your choice should be the HOBBY BREEDER.

It is an interesting fact that poor quality pups from pet shops and backyard breeders are usually sold for the same price and some times even more than those purchased from the serious hobby breeder. All three of the above types of breeders sell puppies that may be NAMASCUSA register able—this is not an assurance of quality or dedication to the breed. So, the question is: How does one recognize the serious, dedicated hobby breeder? Prepared below is criteria that you should require your breeder to meet before you consider purchasing your purebred dog. Do not be afraid to confront them with these requirements. It is your RIGHT and you can rest assured that the dedicated breeder will respond positively and with pride. Your Breeder should:

Belong to a local breed club or a national all-breed club. Ideally, he or she belongs to several. However, sometimes this is impossible if there is no local breed club in the area. The reason for this requirement is that this sort of participation indicates depth of involvement. This breeder is exposed to other points of view, learns more about his breed, general dog care, modern breeding practices and is kept up to date. He is breeding in accordance with a Code of Ethics.

Be involved in showing their dog(s). This means that your breeder is not breeding in a vacuum. The breeder who does not show has no idea how good his dogs really are and is deprived of the opportunity to share information and ideas with others. Showing provides the competition which encourages breeders to produce better dogs. The breeder who shows wants to prove how good his dogs are in competition and is putting his breeding program on the line. He is not relying on just a pedigree to indicate quality. Even though you do not want a show dog, you deserve a pet that is the end result of a carefully planned litter—a pup which received the same care as a potential champion. The Breeder who is known by others and has a reputation to uphold will undoubtedly be as careful and honest in selling you your pet as he is in selling his show dogs.

Give you a period of time which to allow you to have the pup examined by a veterinarian to determine his state of health, so that both of you are assured as to its health. If a problem should arise, it can then be quickly resolved. This period of time is usually 48 to 72 hours.

Give you written instructions on feeding, training, care and grooming. You should also be given the pup’s health/shot records. The breeder should supply you with information where you can purchase books about the breed.

Be able to show you proof that their stock has been x-rayed and is clear of hip dysplasia, with certification from OFA, GDC, Guelph (Ontario, Canada), or PennHip.

Make it clear to you that their responsibility continues long after you have taken your puppy home. Indeed, until your pup has departed this earth. Many dedicated breeders will ask that the pup be returned to them or placed with new owners who meet with their approval if for any reason you are unable to continue ownership.

Be curious about what kind of dogs you have had in the past and what happened to them.

Ask questions like whether or not you have a fenced yard or if the pup will be walked on lead. They will make certain you understand all the negative aspects of owning a dog as well as the positive. Having the pup’s best interests at heart to say nothing of theirs and yours, a reputable breeder will take great pains to place his pups properly the first time around. A returned pup is a traumatic experience for all concerned and therefore, the breeder who is always willing to accept a puppy back will want to make certain that this specific purebred dog is the breed for you.

Be able to show you a clean environment, well-socialized puppies and a dam with a good temperament (happy and self-assured).

Be willing to give you references—names of people who have purchased pups from him in the past or of others in the breed.

Perhaps be a bit hesitant to sell you a pup until they know more about you. Will not pressure you into deciding immediately, and encourage you to see other litters before making your final selection.

Provide a written contract and/or conditions of sale.

Require spaying or neutering of pet quality puppies. Breeders spend a lot of time and effort planning breeding programs designed to improve the breed. They selectively carry on their programs with only the best quality available. Pet quality puppies should be loved and enjoyed as pets. Reputable breeders don’t want their dogs being used just to “make puppies” or worse yet, to have their puppies end up in “puppy mills” where they will be mass produced. Therefore, they will require that pets be spayed or neutered.

If your breeder meets all the above criteria, you are in good hands. If you find yourself with a negative response to any of these, think twice, discuss the situation with someone else. Don’t be impulsive and DO ASK QUESTIONS!

KEEP THIS IN MIND: YOU ARE PROBABLY GOING TO PAY FOR QUALITY. WHETHER YOU GET IT OR NOT IS UP TO YOU!

Buyer’s Checklist
All of the questions below should receive a “Yes” response, and a responsible breeder will be very happy to answer these questions for you. If you receive negative responses, or if a breeder is unwilling to answer, look elsewhere for a puppy.

TEMPERAMENT

_ Has the puppy been well socialized and exposed to a variety of new experiences?
_ Is the puppy outgoing and friendly toward strangers?
_ Does the mother of the puppy have a friendly, confident personality?
_ Does the breeder of the puppy require him to stay with his littermates until at least 8 weeks old?
_ Has the breeder discussed with you the high activity level of some NAS Mini Aussies and their exercise needs to avoid destructive behavior?
_ Has the breeder discussed with you the strong herding instinct in some NAS Mini Aussies and how that can result in heel nipping, pants leg biting, herding of children and chasing cars?

HEALTH

_ Was the puppy raised in a clean, safe environment? (Preferably in a home.)
_ Has the puppy received at least one “puppy shot”?
_ Has the puppy been de-wormed once or preferably twice?
_ Is the mother of the puppy at least 2 years of age?
_ Have both the sire and dam of the puppy had their hips x-rayed for hip dysplasia, and has documentation been provided to you?
_ Have both the sire and dam of the puppy had their eyes examined by a board-certified ophthalmologist to check for hereditary eye defects, and has documentation been provided to you?
_ Has the entire litter had its eyes examined for hereditary eye defects, and has documentation been provided to you?
_ Has the breeder discussed with you other potential health problems in the breed such as epilepsy, cancer and allergies?

CONTRACT

_ Have you been provided with a written contract which clearly states whether the puppy is of show/breeding quality or if it is required to be spayed or neutered?
_ Does the written contract guarantee the puppy or dog is free of debilitating hereditary defects including hip dysplasia and blindness?
_ Have you been provided with a written health record that describes shots and worming completed and any further shots, worming, and heartworm medicine that will be necessary after you take possession of the puppy?
_ Have you been provided with a 4 or 5 generation pedigree of the puppy?
__ Have you been provided with the registration certificate (or application) at the time you take possession of the puppy? Or if on a spay/ neuter agreement , is there a written agreement that upon proof of spay/neuter the registration certificate will be given to you.

Additional thoughts and considerations;

Price?
Paying the highest price does not mean you are going to receive the best puppy, but dedicated breeder has invested a great deal of time, planning, veterinary care, nutrition, showing and stud fees. The initial purchase price is nothing compared with the costs involved in the upkeep of your puppy, which can to live to fifteen years of age.

Where to buy? It’s a good idea to do some reading before you start to talk to breeders, so that you can ask pertinent questions, and understand the responses that you receive. Speak to as many people as possible. When speaking with a breeder regarding a possible purchase, ask for references and names of other puppy buyers, which should assist you to make your decision.

A reputable breeder (RB) upholds specific breed standards, NOT having a litter to have a piece of Fifi or Fido, or for selfish, or financial reasons.

A RB cares enough to check YOU (the prospective owner) out. What kind of life/home are they sending a pup they were reponsible for bringing into the world? NOT just put a pup on a plane to who knows where, or auction them off online for top dollar.

A RB insists on a holisitic nutritional plan (insuring the dog’s health and well being), follows up to see how the the dog is doing and that they were given all proper shots, and spayed/neutered by one year old (to prevent unnecessary litters & avoid certain cancers). A RB stays in touch, and makes themselves available if there are any health concerns (documenting it for their LINE).

They would also insist on being the secondary contact on the microchip and take the dog back for any reason you are unable to keep it (avoiding it ending up in a shelter).

RBs are few and far between. Our Jackpot’s breeder (I traced him thru the rescue and later, his papers) is one.

That’s confusing…if Jackpot’s breeder does all those things, then how did he come to be in rescue?

BY the way, I also have an additional article on RB’s on my blog.

When I was doing my research on the different herding breeds naturally I found A LOT (for Tina) of sites that I would consider reputable. Many of the sites had plenty of pictures of the areas the dogs have and all the puppies. It looks like a RB would not be in it for the money as much as they have the money to do it and a sincere love of the dogs. The reason for the high price tag I assume is twofold, it recovers some of the cost but also the RB wants to be sure the dog will get excellent care.


Still if ever I was going to go that route I think I would make a surprise visit to the breeders to see things for myself but as long as there are dogs in rescue, thats for me!

Jack’s story (condensed) is on his profile. After the little girl’s (who raised him) step dad said he shed too much, he was returned to breeder. Incidentally, a week before, his brother had also been returned (had been hit by a car & hip replaced). Since he had a limp, that owner did not want him any more.

Jack was sold to a woman here in South Fla (who was checked out, by breeder). She paid a hefty sum for him, his crate and airfare. After two weeks, he “was just too much dog” for her. She contacted the breeder. Being so far away, HE contacted a friend (who happens to be my friend), to see if she could foster him until he would be in FLA for the dog show. Then he would bring him back…..then we got hurricaned, 2x. SInce I lived closer to the woman, I agreed to pick up the dog…..and the rest is history ;-)

great info, i cross posted this on a yorkie forum i am a part of

I agree itsallmine….I know from experience with a very disreputable rescuer that a website can be very deceiving indeed. Everything looked ideal, but in reality it bordered on neglect/abuse. After much work, she was shut down by the Dept. of Ag.

By the way, this topic arose from people selling pups on MDS.

Totally agree itsallmine. As long as there are dogs needing to be rescued I just don’t see the point in going anywhere else. I am sure there are many who disagree but thats just my feeling. Have learned a lot since getting Dixie.

Don’t get me wrong ~ I am not saying those pups who do end up in pet stores DON’T deserve loving homes. But realize ~ when you buy from there, you support the laws of supply and demand.

I can not even GO IN THOSE PLACES (I have turned away many photo jobs, b/c of my beliefs). I know too many people (who succumbed to impulse buys) only to have their hearts (& pocketbooks) broken (inc my own dad) with pet store puppies with congenital problems who had to be PTS at a year and under. NOT something I want to live thru (or think I could endure).

So, if you are lucky enough to have a pet store pup who is happy, healthy and well-adjusted ~ hug them EXTRA hard tonite——you are among the lucky ones.

^{^ great post Tina}^

i knew nothing of petstores and puppy mills til not too long ago… Belle is from a breeder, but i don’t consider him reputable, i got lucky with her, but got no guarantees, shots, spay, etc… i wish i had done more research prior, don’t get me wrong, i LOVE Belle to pieces, but there are a lot of things i should have asked for, and looked for…

I paid 850.00 for her, which i thought was a good price for a yorkie, (many of them going for upwards of 1000) but i neglected to find out what i needed from the breeder, therefore i got the puppy without a health guarantee, without her shots, at 9 weeks (yorkshire terrier club of america says they should not go home til 12 weeks+) i have her AKC reg. not that it matters, i know that they can’t KNOW size but they can estimate, and Belle grew to 8lbs (i love her size) but i was told she was going to be between 3 and 5lbs, i did get a beautiful pup… but i do not reccommend this breeder, i think i got lucky, Belle is super healthy and has a great personality…

sorry this is so long… but i thought i’d share my experience

A friend who recently lost their dog to illness. After a month, she is ready for an addition. She shared they are researching breeders ~ I even sent her a link to this thread. I asked if she considered rescue. “But we want a puppy”, she responded.

There is a common misconception that rescues are always mature. NOT TRUE!! In bassett rescue, a mom was turned in, preg and delivered TWELVE beautiful purebred pups.

Ask A6pk, how many preg females she’s helped and how many hundreds of purebred aussie pups she’s whelped.

I have actually only whelped one litter, but I have raised quite a few pups from 1 week on. It’s one of the reasons I can speak from experience about puppies.  And yes, rescue gets in all ages, in fact we get quite a few in the 6-12 month range because they are obnoxious teenagers

We also get in dogs with papers. We even had one that was a champion in the altered class.

I’m certainly not saying rescue dogs are perfect, because in many instances they require work, just as an abused child would, but I can say without a doubt that it’s worth the effort!

I have met many many reeders, but VERY few reputable ones. And just because they show dogs does not mean they are reputable. Maybe I’ll post about that separately since the subject was puppies :))